Garage door won't close?
The door stops 10 cm from the ground, reverses or refuses to close completely. Your garage remains open and vulnerable. 4 possible causes - the most common (dirty sensor) is often fixed in a few simple steps.
Most often, a simple sensor cleaning solves the problem.
Why your door won't close anymore
4 causes ranked by frequency. Test the first one yourself before calling.
Dirty photoelectric sensor
The 2 sensors at the bottom of the rails detect a phantom obstacle (dust, cobweb, winter condensation) and reverse the closing motion. Cause #1 during Luxembourg winters.
- The door goes down then immediately back up
- Motor indicator light normal
- Works if you hold the wall button
- Problem appeared after rain/cold/dust
Misaligned motor limit switch
The electronic stops that define the 'closed' position have shifted (vibrations, power outage, motor reset). The motor thinks the door is closed when 5 to 15 cm remain.
- The door always stops at the same point (not at the bottom)
- No reversal - it simply stops
- Problem appeared after power outage or storm
- Constant and reproducible gap
Worn bottom seal or deformed threshold
The rubber seal at the bottom of the door is worn, hardened by frost or torn off. The door touches the ground unevenly and the motor detects abnormal resistance.
- Door touches the ground on one side but not the other
- Visibly damaged, cracked or missing seal
- Cold draught at the bottom of the door
- Light visible under the closed door
Obstructed rail in lower position
An object, gravel, ice or a rail deformation prevents the rollers from reaching the closed position. The motor detects the resistance and stops.
- Door stops at the same point with resistance
- Grinding or rubbing at the end of descent
- Visible obstruction in the side rail at the bottom
- Problem appeared after construction work or moving
2 steps that resolve most cases
Before calling, these 2 quick tests cover the majority of closing failures.
Clean the sensors
Locate the 2 small housings (3 cm) at the bottom of each side rail. Wipe the lens with a dry microfibre cloth. Check that the 2 LEDs (one red, one green) face each other. Test the closing.
Inspect the threshold
Look at the bottom of the door: is the rubber seal intact across the full width? Is there gravel, ice or an object in the side rails at the bottom? Clear any visible obstruction.
If it persists, call us
If sensor cleaning + threshold inspection aren't enough, it's probably the motor limit switch or a rail issue. Our technician usually fixes it on site.
Repair closing mechanism
From diagnosis to a hermetically sealed floor - here's how it goes.
Phone diagnosis
The technician guides you through sensor cleaning. If that's not enough, he schedules the visit.
Travel
Technician equipped with replacement sensors, bottom seals and limit switch adjustment tools.
Diagnosis + repair
Limit switch adjustment, sensor or seal replacement, rail cleaning. Resolved on site in most cases.
Testing
3 complete up/down cycles, floor seal check, safety reversal test.
Repair cost closing mechanism
Closing failures are generally inexpensive to fix.
Price on free quote, depending on the fault and door model. Phone-guided sensor cleaning = free.
Open door = vulnerable garage.
Clean the sensors. If that's not enough, call +352 691 545 407 - call-out Monday to Friday (8am-12pm / 1pm-5pm), fast response subject to availability.
“Congratulations to the technicians for their high professionalism, but also for actually diagnosing the real fault and fixing it. Came and did good work at a fair price. Bravo.”
Frequently asked questions
Answers to our customers' most common questions.
Also related to these problems
Door won't close? Free diagnosis.
Clean the sensors first. If that's not enough, call-out Monday to Friday (8am-12pm / 1pm-5pm) on +352 691 545 407, fast response subject to availability, on free quote.
Closing repair service areas